masterplumber.netthe logo

This is page two of the Sayco 3 handle tub and shower, repair, instructions page. Back to the Sayco faucet first page.

Note: Click on any image link to see a larger image.
This is what you see after you have removed the shower valve handle, the chrome flange and the chrome sleeve from the cold water side of the three handle tub and shower valve.

See repair image D

This is the faucet stem removal tool, it comes with the kit I purchased, when I started this faucet repair, This is not the best made tool, if the stem is really in the faucet tight, if will strip out and round off the hex ends of the faucet stem, you can get a better stem removal tool or get a deep socket wrench with a 1/2" drive, the stem will go through the 1/2" drive whole, you will need to use a wrench on the socket wrench, because part of the stem will be sticking out of the 1/2" drive hole.

See repair image E

So for this shower valve, the faucet removal tool worked just fine, place the wider side of the tool over the stem, push it in ass far as it will go, then use a pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench to turn it counter clockwise (again, for you young people who have never seen a wall clock, turn the top of the stem removal tool to your left)

See repair image F

Note: I am using a pair of channel luck pliers to remove the cold water stem from the Sayco tub and shower faucet valve.

See repair image G

This is a picture of the stem, inside of the stem removing tool, as it came out of the cold water side of the tub and shower body.

See repair image H

Note: the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem, it is very worn and needs to be replaced, just remove the screw at the bottom of the stem, discard the old faucet washer and replace it with a new flat faucet washer, and tighten the screw. But sometimes, the screw at the bottom of the stem holding the faucet washer, will not turn, or the head of the screw that holds the faucet washer in place will have rusted away, and you can not get the screw out, you can drill out the old screw, and tap new threads in the stem, or just get a new stem.

There is still something in the shower body, that needs to be inspected, or replaced, the shower valve seat, the seat is where the washer at the bottom of the stem sits, preventing water from passing through, sometimes a faucet seat will develop a very small grove in it, sometimes it will have a big gap in it, either one will prevent the washer from sitting on the seat properly causing water to get by, giving you a leak.

See repair image J

You can feel around the seat with your finger, if it feels smooth all around, you may not need to replace it, you can also have a good look at it, by shinning a flashlight on it. Even though it may feel nice and smooth and it may look good, there can be a very small grove in it.

See repair image K

I got the whole kit, so I am replacing everything on this tub faucet, so to remove the faucet seat, you will need a faucet seat removal tool, it is better to not use the type that are tapered, the tapered seat removal tools will cause you to strip out the seat, making it impossible to remove, or they will bottom out at the back of the faucet body before, being tight enough to be of any use. Note the tool I am using, although rusty, is a perfect fit inside the faucet seat. I like to use a little grease on the threads of the new seat.

See repair image L

Now I am going to install the new Sayco faucet seat into the shower valve, on the cold water side of the faucet, some people use Teflon tape on the threads of the faucet seat, I do not, I think the Teflon tape prevents the shower valve seat from screwing all of the way in to the tub valve, this will limit the movement of the new faucet stem.
Make sure the stem is in tight but, don't go over board, remember it is just brass.

See repair image M

Now, the new Sayco shower stem, the kit comes with 3 faucet stems, one for the cold water side, one for the hot water side, and one for the middle, to divert the water from the tub spout to the shower head, the hot and cold water stems are identical and can be used for both hot and cold water. For this faucet, the handles turn clockwise to turn the water off and counter clockwise to turn the water on, other types of faucets, have one handle turning the water on clockwise and the other turning the water on counter clockwise, for that type of faucet, you need to be sure to put the cold water stem in the cold side of the faucet and the hot water stem in the hot side of the faucet.

See repair image N

Make sure the rubber O ring from the old stem has been removed, and that the new O ring on the new faucet stem is in place, 2 O rings will not allow the faucet stem to sit properly, and will cause a leak, use the stem tool to tighten the new stem into the shower body, make sure it is tight, but don't over tighten it, it is only brass.
Now the new packing nut, this nut needs to be tightened, it does not come tight from the factory, if you do not tighten it, it will leak back into the wall causing damage to the wall and floor behind the tub.

See repair image O

On the faucet stem removal tool, there is a smaller side, this side fits over the faucet steam packing nut, you can use this to tighten the packing nut, but you will need to use a pair of pliers to fine tune it, note in the picture, I am using a pair of pliers on the packing nut, with the handle on the stem, what I am doing is, I am making sure the packing nut is tight enough, so that no water comes out between the nut and the stem, and that the handle turns on and off easy, if you leave it too loose, it will leak, if you make it to tight, the handle will be too hard to turn.

See repair image P

So now that you have the new faucet stem installed, and the packing nut set where it needs to be, it's time to install the new sleeve, I also put a little grease on the inside threads of the sleeve, this makes it easer to remove in the future.

See repair image Q

Once the sleeve is installed, you can install the chrome flange or finish plate, after you are done you should cauls all around this flange, to prevent water from going behind the shower faucet.

See repair image R

Now all that is left is the handle, I like to put a little grease on the tip of the stem, so that the handle will come off easer in the future.
Be sure the handle is tight before you put the new faucet handle button in place. This is the finished product for the cold water side of the faucet.

See repair image S

This is a picture of the, water stem and the diverter stem, the one on the left is the diverter stem, it goes into the center of the three handle Sayco faucet, the other is the water stem you should have 2 of them, one for the hot water side and one for the cold water side. I also like to put a little grease on the threads of the stems.

See repair image T

And this is the finished product, the faucet no longer leaks and all the trim is shinny new, it looks great.

See repair image U

Now I few things to think about, most of the old faucets like this one have lead in them, lead has been used to make brass plumbing parts for many years, new brass faucets and fittings do not contain any lead. You may want to replace the faucet with a new one.

Also this type of 3 handle tub and shower faucet, does not have and pressure balance of scald guard protection features, Pressure balance, and scald guard features, prevent a person from getting burned in the tub or shower, if for some reason, the cold water pressure drops, (someone flushing a toilet) In the old style faucets, if the cold water pressure drops, the water in the shower turns to only hot, if the hot water is set too high at the water heater, a person could be burned very badly. All new homes must have pressure balanced and scald guard protection in them, some towns require the old faucets be replaced with new, before a house can be sold.

Replacing a 2 handle or three handle Sayco shower faucet with a new single handle tub and shower faucet is simple,
please see this page.