This is page two of the Sayco 3 handle tub and shower, repair, instructions
page. Back to the Sayco faucet
Click on any image to see a larger image.
is what you see after you have removed the shower valve
handle, the chrome flange and the chrome sleeve from the
cold water side of the three handle tub and shower valve.
is the faucet stem removal tool, it comes with the kit I
purchased, when I started this faucet repair, This is not
the best made tool, if the stem is really in the faucet
tight, if will strip out and round off the hex ends of the
faucet stem, you can get a better stem removal tool or get a
deep socket wrench with a 1/2" drive, the stem will go
through the 1/2" drive whole, you will need to use a wrench
on the socket wrench, because part of the stem will be
sticking out of the 1/2" drive hole.
for this shower valve, the faucet removal tool worked just
fine, place the wider side of the tool over the stem, push
it in ass far as it will go, then use a pair of channel
locks or a pipe wrench to turn it counter clockwise (again,
for you young people who have never seen a wall clock, turn
the top of the stem removal tool to your left)
I am using a pair of channel luck pliers to remove the cold
water stem from the Sayco tub and shower faucet valve.
is a picture of the stem, inside of the stem removing tool,
as it came out of the cold water side of the tub and shower
the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem, it is very worn
and needs to be replaced, just remove the screw at the
bottom of the stem, discard the old faucet washer and
replace it with a new flat faucet washer, and tighten the
screw. But sometimes, the screw at the bottom of the stem
holding the faucet washer, will not turn, or the head of the
screw that holds the faucet washer in place will have rusted
away, and you can not get the screw out, you can drill out
the old screw, and tap new threads in the stem, or just get
a new stem.
is still something in the shower body, that needs to be
inspected, or replaced, the shower valve seat, the seat is
where the washer at the bottom of the stem sits, preventing
water from passing through, sometimes a faucet seat will
develop a very small grove in it, sometimes it will have a
big gap in it, either one will prevent the washer from
sitting on the seat properly causing water to get by, giving
you a leak.
can feel around the seat with your finger, if it feels
smooth all around, you may not need to replace it, you can
also have a good look at it, by shinning a flashlight on it.
Even though it may feel nice and smooth and it may look
good, there can be a very small grove in it.
got the whole kit, so I am replacing everything on this tub
faucet, so to remove the faucet seat, you will need a faucet
seat removal tool, it is better to not use the type that are
tapered, the tapered seat removal tools will cause you to
strip out the seat, making it impossible to remove, or they
will bottom out at the back of the faucet body before, being
tight enough to be of any use. Note the tool I am using,
although rusty, is a perfect fit inside the faucet seat. I
like to use a little grease on the threads of the new seat.
I am going to install the new Sayco faucet seat into the
shower valve, on the cold water side of the faucet, some
people use Teflon tape on the threads of the faucet seat, I
do not, I think the Teflon tape prevents the shower valve
seat from screwing all of the way in to the tub valve, this
will limit the movement of the new faucet stem.
the stem is in tight but, don't go over board, remember it
is just brass.
the new Sayco shower stem, the kit comes with 3 faucet
stems, one for the cold water side, one for the hot water
side, and one for the middle, to divert the water from the
tub spout to the shower head, the hot and cold water stems
are identical and can be used for both hot and cold water.
For this faucet, the handles turn clockwise to turn the
water off and counter clockwise to turn the water on, other
types of faucets, have one handle turning the water on
clockwise and the other turning the water on counter
clockwise, for that type of faucet, you need to be sure to
put the cold water stem in the cold side of the faucet and
the hot water stem in the hot side of the faucet.
sure the rubber O ring from the old stem has been removed,
and that the new O ring on the new faucet stem is in place,
2 O rings will not allow the faucet stem to sit properly,
and will cause a leak, use the stem tool to tighten the new
stem into the shower body, make sure it is tight, but don't
over tighten it, it is only brass.
Now the new packing
nut, this nut needs to be tightened, it does not come tight
from the factory, if you do not tighten it, it will leak
back into the wall causing damage to the wall and floor
behind the tub.
the faucet stem removal tool, there is a smaller side, this
side fits over the faucet steam packing nut, you can use
this to tighten the packing nut, but you will need to use a
pair of pliers to fine tune it, note in the picture, I am
using a pair of pliers on the packing nut, with the handle
on the stem, what I am doing is, I am making sure the
packing nut is tight enough, so that no water comes out
between the nut and the stem, and that the handle turns on
and off easy, if you leave it too loose, it will leak, if
you make it to tight, the handle will be too hard to turn.
now that you have the new faucet stem installed, and the
packing nut set where it needs to be, it's time to install
the new sleeve, I also put a little grease on the inside
threads of the sleeve, this makes it easer to remove in the
the sleeve is installed, you can install the chrome flange
or finish plate, after you are done you should cauls all
around this flange, to prevent water from going behind the
all that is left is the handle, I like to put a little
grease on the tip of the stem, so that the handle will come
off easer in the future.
Be sure the handle is tight
before you put the new faucet handle button in place. This
is the finished product for the cold water side of the
is a picture of the, water stem and the diverter stem, the
one on the left is the diverter stem, it goes into the
center of the three handle Sayco faucet, the other is the
water stem you should have 2 of them, one for the hot water
side and one for the cold water side. I also like to put a
little grease on the threads of the stems.
this is the finished product, the faucet no longer leaks and
all the trim is shinny new, it looks great.
Now I few
things to think about, most of the old faucets like this one
have lead in them, lead has been used to make brass plumbing
parts for many years, new brass faucets and fittings do not
contain any lead. You may want to replace the faucet with a
Also this type of 3 handle tub and shower
faucet, does not have and pressure balance of scald guard
protection features, Pressure balance, and scald guard
features, prevent a person from getting burned in the tub or
shower, if for some reason, the cold water pressure drops,
(someone flushing a toilet) In the old style faucets, if the
cold water pressure drops, the water in the shower turns to
only hot, if the hot water is set too high at the water
heater, a person could be burned very badly. All new homes
must have pressure balanced and scald guard protection in
them, some towns require the old faucets be replaced with
new, before a house can be sold.
Replacing a 2 handle
or three handle Sayco shower faucet with a new single handle
tub and shower faucet is simple,
please see this page.