I'm Having a problem with the pressure on my boiler.
|I happened on your site as I worked on my
boiler (baseboard heating system) as I had to fixed a burst pipe. I
always kept the water valve closed (what I mean is not the auto feeder
but turn the main handle until I close any water from entering the
system) and manually added water. And since the boiler was drained I
also replaced a Bell & Gosset pressure reducer auto feeder valve that
was there since I bought the house 20 years ago with a Watts factory set
to 15 psi. While at it I replaced the expansion tank ( Water Worker,
tested and get about 12 psi), auto air bleeder valve (Taco HY-Vent) and
the blow valve (Watts set at 30psi). I kinda wish I had also changed
the pressure gauge.
I bleed the system, and I have heat in all the 5 zones. All seems good
BUT, i still need to keep the water valve closed. When I turn the water
on I hear the water filling and I do hear it stop a certain point (which
makes me think the Watts pressure reducer and fill is working) but the
pressure gauge was reading 40 psi and the blow valve did not release.
Made me think the gauge is faulty. It has been on the boiler since I
bought the house and God only know how old it is. I tried this stunt
while the boiler was actaully running and water temp at about 180. I
also noted that when I have the water closed off completely the pressure
gets really low and sits at or close to 0. Boiler running as well.
|I add water manually (slowly) and the pressure
shoots up quickly to 20 psi and I shut off the water. Then when it runs
the pressure gets close to 30psi. The blow valve does not blow but I
worry that it will so i let out some water and then the pressure drops
fast again. It now seems to be a bit steadier right now. When cold its
about 1-2 psi (looks almost at 0) and when running and water hits close
to 180 its at about 22 psi.
I did try to leave "extra" water in the system (added and closed the
water off) starting at 20psi (assuming the gauge was off) i came home
from work and found a little water had released from the blow valve. So
I took water out of the system and now its working OK for a few days.
But still have not opened the water valve.
At this point it seems best to leave things as they are. I am concerned
about it possible running at no pressure as I had found it (but believe
there is enough water in the system and is not dry).
Here is why I keep researching and looking for answers and why I am
writing you this novel!
I cannot figure out why the pressure increases so much when I turn on
the water and try to let the Watts reducer fill valve do its job and
stop water from entering at 15 psi as it is sopposed to do. I do think
the Valve could be set wrong or is just plain busted right out of the
box? I am naive enough to hope that a new one would works as it is
Is there something else that could be causing it? Maybe
everything is good but the gauge is not working right? It just
seems I am back to the way it was before the pipe broke and had all my
old parts on. I still have to keep the water off and manually fill
it if the pressure drops.
I cannot find any leaks that I can see. Can't vouch for any pin
holes in the pipes that are behind the walls. Any bleeder valvus
that I found seem not to be leaking either.
Sorry to write so much. Just maybe you have something that I have
not thought about. I can always wait until the end of the season
and replace the auto reducer with another brand and see if that works.
When you replaced the expansion tank, did you use the right size
expansion tank? You can but a temporary pressure gauge to see whats
really going on at Ace hardware or any plumbing supply http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=28976646
Just hook it to any boiler drain on the system to see what is going
on. The fluctuation of pressure may be due to an undersized expansion
tank. If you would like to send pictures of the boiler and pipes
connected to It< I will have a look and see if I can see any problems.
I used a #30 expansion tank. I have a 2 floor home (no
basement). The tank i replaced was the same size is was there.
but to be honest I never really paid attention to the psi although I do
know that it was fluctuate and during each heating season I did add some
water to raise the pressure. I always that that was normal and I
knew that the auto feeder was not working so I just dealt with it.
Since I had to invest time this year learning more I now realize the psi
should stay relative consistent and stable.
I will try the pressure gauge you recommend and see if that yeilds
anything new and when i have the chance I will take some pics for you.
Last night I got home and there was no heat. mama mia! this time
it was the Pilot light so I had to replace the thermocoupler and got it
to stay on again. This heating season has been fun and I am
learning just about everything there is to know about a hydronic system!
But I am sure there is more!
Thanks for caring!
Ok Well let me know how it goes and if you need any more help
Website by: Thomas Petito Reardon